Beaune Clos des Aigrots 1er Cru, Domaine Michel Lafarge, 2017

At Domaine Lafarge, red wines are 100% destemmed. Father and son team (the late Michel) and his son Frédéric converted to biodynamic viticulture in 1996 – so prescient – and the domaine is now at the forefront of the movement. There is nothing showy here, as a visit to the mould-covered cellars will confirm. What emerges however are pure, age-worthy and yet quite beautifully delicate wines.

The domaine has a plot of 45 year old vines in Aigrots. In 2017 the wine has a spicy personality and nice, dark, peppery fruit. The tannins are grippier than the Lafarge Volnays, with expressive stony minerality.

Drink 2022 – 2032, Robert Parker, 91 points